Why does my line pile up on one side of the spool and/or the levelwind mechanism has stopped moving?
The levelwind pawl is one of the few parts on a fishing reel that will eventually just flat wear out.  The dirtier the reel, the quicker this happens.  The levelwind system is exposed to the elements, so it is the first place to collect gunk.  When the pawl teeth become worn, the pawl with begin to "jump the track" of the worm gear, causing the levelwind to quit working.  If a pawl gets this far gone before replacement, it may have damaged the worm gear too.  Depending on brand, pawls cost about $3, worm gears about $9, so only makes sense to periodically replace the pawl.

My baitcasting reel works fine but has a "rough spot"?
Several possible causes, but the most common is a bad gear tooth.  The bad place is usually on the worm gear itself, the idle gear that drives the worm gear (depending on the model), or very rarely the main gear itself.  Worm gear and idle gears are sometimes nylon, which can strip under a heavy load.

My reel makes a "clicking" noise sometimes when I engage it after the cast.
The pinion gear is worn.  The pinon transfers power from the main gear to the spool.  The slotted end on the pinion fits over the squared off end of the spool axle when the reel is engaged.  The brass pinion gear is softer than the spool axle, so it is usually the first to wear.  Once the slot on the pinion is "wallowed out", it has problems cleanly engaging the spool.  The clicking noise is the pinion "skipping" as it tries to engage the spool axle.  This can happen on any reel that has seen lots of use, but is most common on reels used for techniques where people have the habit of engaging the reel before the spool has stopped spinning.  Buzzbaiting for bass for example.  Once the problem is bad enough, spool will begin to slip under a load, then spool won't turn at all since pinion can't firmly engage.

What about braided line?
Braided line is great for many applications due to its castability, improved feel, and near zero stretch.  The only issue to keep in mind is that braided line will slip if tied directly to the spool.  Before you spool braid on your reel, put on about several yards of monofilament backing.  This will prevent the braid from slipping on the spool.

I hear a high pitched whine when I cast?
A bearing is probably dry and needs lubed.

My reel just doesn't cast the way it used to.  Must be "worn out?"
More than likely nothing actually wrong, it is just dirty.  A professional clean and service should restore it to its former glory.

My fishing reel's drag is weak and sometimes slips?
What is thought to be a drag problem is often something else.  Could be several things.  Pinion gear problem (see above), braided line problem (see above), or could be the spring washers that put tension on the drag are weak.  You should always store your reel with the drag backed off to save the spring washers.  Some reels have a "wet drag" that call for lubrication, others a "dry drag" where any grease or oil present is going to cause problems.

My fishing reel's anti-reverse slips?
The nature of this problem depends on the type of anti-reverse system.  If your fishing reel has "instant anti-reverse", it probably is a problem that can be taken care of with a service and cleaning.  Instant anti-reverse roller bearings are very touchy.  They do need some lubrication, but too much, and they will quit working.  Excess lube may have found its way to the roller bearing, or you may have lubed the wrong place when you were servicing your reel.  For reels without instant anti-reverse, the problem likely lies with the anti-reverse dog or the anti-reverse gear.  The leaf springs that hold the dog in place may be out of adjustment, the dog may be worn, or a tooth may be broke off the gear.  Those parts are all a cheap fix.

I used my fishing reel in saltwater.  Is it ruined?
If you don't do something, it very well could be.  Saltwater is amazingly corrosive stuff.  Fish with your reel in even brackish water without servicing it afterwords, and you are asking for trouble.  Reels can handle the salt if you ALWAYS rinse them off at the end of every trip.  Don't use high pressure, that only drives the salt farther into the fishing reel.  Just a gentle but thorough rinse from a garden hose will be fine.  Apply some fresh oil to friction points, give it a light coat of silicone spray for protection during storage, and the fishing reel should be ready for your next trip.  If you don't do these things, the first places you will probably see problems are the bearings and the instant anti-reverse roller bearing.  If the reel took a saltwater dunk, it needs to be torn completely down and serviced.  Even a badly corroded reel can often be brought back from the dead with professional service.  Although you may religiously rinse the reel at the end of every trip, it is a good idea to have it professionally serviced every off season so it can be completely torn down and cleaned of any salt residue.

Can my fishing reel be upgraded?
Yes, stock bearings can be replaced in any reel.  Aftermarket bearings with a higher ABEC rating should perform better.  Whether the difference is worth the cost is up to you.  Some reels can be upraded by replacing bushings with bearings.  On some reels, the gear ratio can be changed by swapping gears.  All of these operations are highly dependant on the make and model though, so contact us for more information.

Which brand of reel is the best?
Like Ford vs Chevy, that is a question that will never be answered.  Everybody has their favorite, and some are designed for high performance, some for durability.  All the major manufacturers make some good products.  In general, you get what you pay for, but there are plenty of good mid-range reels on the market.  One thing to keep in mind is parts support.  Nothing like having to spend $80 to replace a reel for lack of a $3 part.  Major brands have excellent parts support.  Store brands, not so good.

The spool doesn't oscillate on my spinning reel?
Likely a problem with the oscillation gear.  Teeth broken, etc.  On higher end reels with a worm gear drive oscillation system, could be the oscillation pawl worn out.

The bail won't close?
Broken bail spring #1 spinning reel problem, and a cheap fix.  If the bail is loose and has no tension, there is your culprit.  Also could be a problem with the trip lever system that kicks the bail over to close it, again usually a cheap fix.  Could be the bail wire itself.  If it is badly bent, it could be binding thus preventing the spring from closing it properly.

My fishing reel's anti-reverse slips?
The nature of this problem depends on the type of anti-reverse system.  If your fishing reel has "instant anti-reverse", it probably is a problem that can be taken care of with a service and cleaning.  Instant anti-reverse roller bearings are very touchy.  They do need some lubrication, but too much, and they will quit working.  Excess lube may have found its way to the roller bearing, or you may have lubed the wrong place when you were servicing your reel.  For reels without instant anti-reverse, the problem likely lies with the anti-reverse dog or the anti-reverse dog spring.  A spot of corrosion could be causing the dog to stick, the dog may be worn, or a tooth may be broke off the gear.  Those parts are all a cheap fix.

Can my fishing reel be upgraded?
Yes, stock bearings can be replaced in any reel.  Aftermarket bearings with a higher ABEC rating should perform better.  Whether the difference is worth the cost is up to you.  Some reels can be upraded by replacing bushings with bearings.  On some reels, the gear ratio can be changed by swapping gears.  All of these operations are highly dependant on the make and model though, so contact us for more information.

I used my fishing reel in saltwater.  Is it ruined?
If you don't do something, it very well could be.  Saltwater is amazingly corrosive stuff.  Fish with your reel in even brackish water without servicing it afterwords, and you are asking for trouble.  Reels can handle the salt if you ALWAYS rinse them off at the end of every trip.  Don't use high pressure, that only drives the salt farther into the fishing reel.  Just a gentle but thorough rinse from a garden hose will be fine.  Apply some fresh oil to friction points, give it a light coat of silicone spray for protection during storage, and the fishing reel should be ready for your next trip.  If you don't do these things, the first places you will probably see problems are the gear bearings, line roller bearing, and the anti-reverse system.  If the reel took a saltwater dunk, it needs to be torn completely down and serviced.  Even a badly corroded reel can often be brought back from the dead with professional service.  Although you may religiously rinse the reel at the end of every trip, it is a good idea to have it professionally serviced every off season so it can be completely torn down and cleaned of any salt residue.

Which brand of reel is the best?
Like Ford vs Chevy, that is a question that will never be answered.  Everybody has their favorite, and some are designed for high performance, some for durability.  All the major manufacturers make some good products.  In general, you get what you pay for, but there are plenty of good mid-range reels on the market.  One thing to keep in mind is parts support.  Nothing like having to spend $80 to replace a reel for lack of a $3 part.  Major brands have excellent parts support.  Store brands, not so good.